The drive to work this morning was a little dicey, to say the least. The 6 centimetres of snow that fell overnight combined with temperatures that hovered right around the freezing mark to make the roads slick and intersections downright slippery. I parked in my usual spot and as I was standing at the intersection waiting for the walk light I noticed a car sliding over the crosswalk (against the light) with the ABS fully engaged and the driver frantically tossing aside a cell phone.
Watching this reminded me of a story told several years ago by a Canadian automotive journalist. He was talking with others in his profession about the best vehicle for a teenager to drive in the winter and while others were going on about the benefits of front-wheel drives, four-wheel drives, and SUVs, his position was that an older, 6 cylinder rear-wheel drive car would be best. When asked if he was afraid of his teenager putting it into the ditch, he said that at least they would do it at a slow speed. His point was that newer, more advanced vehicles give an inexperienced driver a misplaced sense of confidence and would cause them to drive beyond their abilities.
I'd like to take that thought a few steps further. For those of you who have been driving for a few decades or currently own a pre-80's car, remember what it was like to drive one of those things at 70 mph or higher? You had two hands firmly on the steering wheel, one foot hovering on the brake and even if you weren't religious, your prayed that nothing got in your way.
Today's cars have anti-lock disc brakes, traction control, electronic brake distribution, all-wheel drive, four-wheel drive, front-wheel drive, air bags, crumple zones, and all kinds of other features designed to either prevent a crash or protect us in the event of one. These cars also have satellite radios, cup holders, GPS systems, cell phones, and other doodads and add-ons that not only distract us from the job of driving but also deceive us into feeling over-confident about our driving abilities. Don't agree? The next time you're sitting at a red light, take a look around at the ever-increasing percentage of drivers who are on the phone, texting, eating, drinking, reading, or doing any one (or more) of a number of things that distract from their driving. It's become an epidemic!
Here are some questions for you: have the safety devices in today's cars actually created more dangerous drivers? Have people become too complacent behind the wheel? Have today's vehicles actually become too easy to drive?
Rather than junking old cars, I suggest that we refurbish them for new drivers and those who have had an at-fault collision. Put them behind the wheel of a 4 or 6 cylinder, manual transmission, rear-wheel drive car with manual brakes and steering and I can guarantee that you won't see them sliding through a red light while talking on the phone.
CanadianRods.com
Friday, December 28, 2007
Thursday, December 27, 2007
Welcome To The 'NEW' CanadianRods.com Website
This site has gone through a number of iterations over the years in order to suit what I felt would best benefit the automotive enthusiast and the hobby.
In the beginning, there were a few articles and information about different shows that were happening across Canada. From there it grew to be a place for those interested in buying, selling, or just showing off their cars to have a place to do so. Now, it will become a voice.
What type of voice this site becomes depends on you, the visitor to, and hopefully member of, the CanadianRods community. Our hobby is facing what, in my opinion, will be it's greatest challenge and that challenge is one of survival. Whether you're talking about the environment, the Kyoto Accord, ethanol fuels, restrictive legislation, or public perception, our hobby has a lot of obstacles to overcome. Obstacles that could threaten our ability to enjoy the usage of our vehicles.
I hope that you will not only read my rants, but will comment on them and become a member of this community of Canadian automotive enthusiasts who are willing to rise to the challenge and protect our hobby from those who want to get our antiques, classics, muscle cars, hot rods, street rods, and tuners off the streets.
In the beginning, there were a few articles and information about different shows that were happening across Canada. From there it grew to be a place for those interested in buying, selling, or just showing off their cars to have a place to do so. Now, it will become a voice.
What type of voice this site becomes depends on you, the visitor to, and hopefully member of, the CanadianRods community. Our hobby is facing what, in my opinion, will be it's greatest challenge and that challenge is one of survival. Whether you're talking about the environment, the Kyoto Accord, ethanol fuels, restrictive legislation, or public perception, our hobby has a lot of obstacles to overcome. Obstacles that could threaten our ability to enjoy the usage of our vehicles.
I hope that you will not only read my rants, but will comment on them and become a member of this community of Canadian automotive enthusiasts who are willing to rise to the challenge and protect our hobby from those who want to get our antiques, classics, muscle cars, hot rods, street rods, and tuners off the streets.
Saturday, December 1, 2007
How To Wash Your Classic
Kinda sounds dumb, doesn’t it - how to wash your classic car? Well, that’s what I use to think until I found out that some of the cleaning methods that I was using were actually damaging my paint. So I did a little research and found some information to share with you.
Dish detergent is for dishes
There are still quite a few people that think soap is soap. If it will work on my dishes, it will work on my car. If you’re the type of person who likes to wax their car after every wash, then dish detergent will work fine for you. The reason dish detergent is a definite no-no for your car is the exact same reason that it’s great for your dishes – it’s a grease remover. It will remove that protective layer of wax just as quickly and easily as it removes the leftovers from your supper dishes. The best detergents to use on your car are ones designed for automotive surfaces. Most of these products are pH balanced, contain shine enhancers, and even a water-based wax to protect, rather than harm, your finish. Keep in mind that this does not replace a proper wax job, but it does help to keep the shine lasting just a little bit longer. Which brand is best? Ask six people and you’ll probably get six different answers, but my suggestion would be to look for a quality name brand product and keep in mind that you get what you pay for. If one brand sells theirs in a pop-bottle sized container for six bucks and another has a 4 litre jug for half that price, there’s got to be more of a difference between them than the name on the front. The most expensive product on the shelf may not be the best value, but neither is the cheapest. My personal preference is a Kleen-Flo product called Wash'n Wax. You can pick it up at your local NAPA store. Please note: if any Kleen-Flo or NAPA reps are reading this, please feel free to send me a few bottles as your way of saying "Thanks for the endorsement".
Black cars look better in the shade
Well, at least according to Gino Vanelli they do. All cars look better when they’re washed in the shade. Your car make look cool, but make sure it feels cool to the touch before you wash it. Sunshine and hot body panels will cause water to evaporate quickly and leave your detergent behind. Make sure your car is cool enough to leave your hand on, out of the sun, and keep it wet at all times while washing it.
One glub or two?
Start with a large, clean plastic bucket (plastic is less likely to scratch if it gets knocked over & hits your car), add a small amount of detergent, and fill with cool or warm water. Don’t use hot water because it can actually soften your car’s wax (remember, you’re not doing dishes – you don’t need to sterilize the paint). How much detergent is too much? Read the directions on the bottle and use about half that amount. A detergent’s job is to break the electrostatic bond between the dirt and your car. It lifts the dirt up and your wash mitt whisks it away. Washing your car with a detergent will always remove a bit of wax, so don’t use more than you have to.
Sponge, ratty old t-shirt, or wash mitt?
Sponges are great for holding water, but they can also hold dirt on their surface and leave fine scratches in your paint. Old t-shirts or cotton cloths are best used for checking fluid levels under the hood. The label may say 100% cotton, but don’t always believe what you read. That cloth could also contain fibers that can scratch. One quick, easy way to tell is to roll up a small piece and set fire to it. If you get a clean flame, you’re burning cotton. If you get black smoke & melting, you’ve got fibers that can scratch. I’ve found that a thick wash mitt works best. Dunk your mitt often and stir it around to remove any loose dirt before going back to your car. You can also fill it with water and lift it straight out of the bucket by the wrist strap so that the water will be strained through it and take away any surface dirt with it. And remember, wash mitts are inexpensive, so don't hold on to them and treasure them. Replace them often.
Crank up the hose and blast away the dirt.
I once used a pressure washer to remove the paint from my deck one summer. Hopefully the paint on your car has a better bond with the surface than what was on my deck, but too much pressure is a bad thing. A strong spray can grind the dirt into your car’s surface as it gets pushed along. A gentle spray will rinse away the detergent and dirt without scratching. If you want to play it really safe, remove the nozzle from your hose and use the gentle stream instead. Wet the entire car, removing any loose dirt with the hose as you go, and when you're ready for the wash mitt, rewet the roof and start washing there. Wash your car in sections and thoroughly rinse the soap off before moving on to the next section. Doing it this way will take longer, but it won’t give the detergent a chance to dry on your paint. When you rinse (especially when doing the top, hood, or trunk), rinse all sides of your car to make sure no detergent is left behind. When I wash my car, I do the top, hood, trunk, and then the sides. If it’s been awhile since the last wash or if there is a fair amount of grime, I’ll do the top part of the sides before letting the mitt hit the dirtier sections.
Speed dry or chamois?
A speed dry is a quick run on the highway at 120 kmh because you’re late for the car show. Wet car + 120 kmh winds + airborne dirt = mud drying on your paint. Do this to your daily driver, but don’t mistreat your classic this way. Use a chamois to remove the water from your car and eliminate water spots. I’ve heard that a natural chamois can contain tanning acids that can remove wax. I’ve also heard that a synthetic chamois doesn’t work as well. I do know that using a blow dryer isn’t a good idea either. Whether you use towels to blot the water away or use a chamois is up to you, but don’t leave the car to dry by itself and leave spots behind.
Birds love shiny objects
That old clunker in your neighbour’s driveway never gets hit by bird droppings, but you can’t put your bucket and hose away before the pigeons are lining up on the telephone wires planning their attack mission. Bird droppings are acidic, and since birds use gravel to aid in digestion, their “presents” also contain dirt. If you happen to be out somewhere with your classic and notice one of these gifts from above on your car, resist the urge to wipe it (and the dirt it contains) across your paint. Instead, buy a bottle of carbonated water, shake it up, and with your thumb over the top, rinse away the offending spot. Wash it properly as soon as you can and consider touching up with spot with a little wax as well.
Dish detergent is for dishes
There are still quite a few people that think soap is soap. If it will work on my dishes, it will work on my car. If you’re the type of person who likes to wax their car after every wash, then dish detergent will work fine for you. The reason dish detergent is a definite no-no for your car is the exact same reason that it’s great for your dishes – it’s a grease remover. It will remove that protective layer of wax just as quickly and easily as it removes the leftovers from your supper dishes. The best detergents to use on your car are ones designed for automotive surfaces. Most of these products are pH balanced, contain shine enhancers, and even a water-based wax to protect, rather than harm, your finish. Keep in mind that this does not replace a proper wax job, but it does help to keep the shine lasting just a little bit longer. Which brand is best? Ask six people and you’ll probably get six different answers, but my suggestion would be to look for a quality name brand product and keep in mind that you get what you pay for. If one brand sells theirs in a pop-bottle sized container for six bucks and another has a 4 litre jug for half that price, there’s got to be more of a difference between them than the name on the front. The most expensive product on the shelf may not be the best value, but neither is the cheapest. My personal preference is a Kleen-Flo product called Wash'n Wax. You can pick it up at your local NAPA store. Please note: if any Kleen-Flo or NAPA reps are reading this, please feel free to send me a few bottles as your way of saying "Thanks for the endorsement".
Black cars look better in the shade
Well, at least according to Gino Vanelli they do. All cars look better when they’re washed in the shade. Your car make look cool, but make sure it feels cool to the touch before you wash it. Sunshine and hot body panels will cause water to evaporate quickly and leave your detergent behind. Make sure your car is cool enough to leave your hand on, out of the sun, and keep it wet at all times while washing it.
One glub or two?
Start with a large, clean plastic bucket (plastic is less likely to scratch if it gets knocked over & hits your car), add a small amount of detergent, and fill with cool or warm water. Don’t use hot water because it can actually soften your car’s wax (remember, you’re not doing dishes – you don’t need to sterilize the paint). How much detergent is too much? Read the directions on the bottle and use about half that amount. A detergent’s job is to break the electrostatic bond between the dirt and your car. It lifts the dirt up and your wash mitt whisks it away. Washing your car with a detergent will always remove a bit of wax, so don’t use more than you have to.
Sponge, ratty old t-shirt, or wash mitt?
Sponges are great for holding water, but they can also hold dirt on their surface and leave fine scratches in your paint. Old t-shirts or cotton cloths are best used for checking fluid levels under the hood. The label may say 100% cotton, but don’t always believe what you read. That cloth could also contain fibers that can scratch. One quick, easy way to tell is to roll up a small piece and set fire to it. If you get a clean flame, you’re burning cotton. If you get black smoke & melting, you’ve got fibers that can scratch. I’ve found that a thick wash mitt works best. Dunk your mitt often and stir it around to remove any loose dirt before going back to your car. You can also fill it with water and lift it straight out of the bucket by the wrist strap so that the water will be strained through it and take away any surface dirt with it. And remember, wash mitts are inexpensive, so don't hold on to them and treasure them. Replace them often.
Crank up the hose and blast away the dirt.
I once used a pressure washer to remove the paint from my deck one summer. Hopefully the paint on your car has a better bond with the surface than what was on my deck, but too much pressure is a bad thing. A strong spray can grind the dirt into your car’s surface as it gets pushed along. A gentle spray will rinse away the detergent and dirt without scratching. If you want to play it really safe, remove the nozzle from your hose and use the gentle stream instead. Wet the entire car, removing any loose dirt with the hose as you go, and when you're ready for the wash mitt, rewet the roof and start washing there. Wash your car in sections and thoroughly rinse the soap off before moving on to the next section. Doing it this way will take longer, but it won’t give the detergent a chance to dry on your paint. When you rinse (especially when doing the top, hood, or trunk), rinse all sides of your car to make sure no detergent is left behind. When I wash my car, I do the top, hood, trunk, and then the sides. If it’s been awhile since the last wash or if there is a fair amount of grime, I’ll do the top part of the sides before letting the mitt hit the dirtier sections.
Speed dry or chamois?
A speed dry is a quick run on the highway at 120 kmh because you’re late for the car show. Wet car + 120 kmh winds + airborne dirt = mud drying on your paint. Do this to your daily driver, but don’t mistreat your classic this way. Use a chamois to remove the water from your car and eliminate water spots. I’ve heard that a natural chamois can contain tanning acids that can remove wax. I’ve also heard that a synthetic chamois doesn’t work as well. I do know that using a blow dryer isn’t a good idea either. Whether you use towels to blot the water away or use a chamois is up to you, but don’t leave the car to dry by itself and leave spots behind.
Birds love shiny objects
That old clunker in your neighbour’s driveway never gets hit by bird droppings, but you can’t put your bucket and hose away before the pigeons are lining up on the telephone wires planning their attack mission. Bird droppings are acidic, and since birds use gravel to aid in digestion, their “presents” also contain dirt. If you happen to be out somewhere with your classic and notice one of these gifts from above on your car, resist the urge to wipe it (and the dirt it contains) across your paint. Instead, buy a bottle of carbonated water, shake it up, and with your thumb over the top, rinse away the offending spot. Wash it properly as soon as you can and consider touching up with spot with a little wax as well.
Hot Rod Glossary
| Antique: | 25 years old or older, in stock, unmodified, or restored to original condition. |
| Appletons: | Fender-mounted spotlights, named for the manufacturer. |
| Baby Moons: | Small chromed hubcaps that only cover the center of the wheel. |
| Balanced: | Normally used to define balancing the rotating mass (ie: crankshaft), but could also mean matching the weights of the pistons and rods. |
| Beltline: | The line running around a car's body formed by the bottom edges of the side windows. |
| Binders: | Brakes. |
| Blower: | A supercharger. |
| Blown Gasser: | A supercharged, gas burning engine. |
| Blueprinted: | Ensuring the dimensions of the parts in the engine are more accurate and, therefore, closer to the original engine blueprint values. |
| Bullets: | Chromed, bullet-shaped extensions used on bumpers, grilles, and wheels. |
| Business Coupe: | A simple two-door coupe, without a rumble seat, built between the mid to late thirties. Also referred to as a Businessman's Coupe. |
| Carson Top: | A solid, removable roof that is covered with a soft material. |
| Channeled: | Cutting the floor so the body rests around the frame rails rather than sitting on top of the frame. This gives an overall lowered appearance. |
| Chopped: | A hard-top car that has had its roof lowered. |
| Classic: | A fine or unusual motorcar built between 1925 and 1948. A classic is distinguished by its fine design, high engineering standards, and superior workmanship. Only certain important automotive brands are considered "true" classics. |
| Convertible: | An open-top car with a folding roof and side windows. |
| Crate Engine: | Factory built, ready to run engine. |
| Custom: | A car that is modified in visual appearance through imaginative and technical methods to create a distinctive vehicle. |
| Dago: | A dropped front-end. |
| Decked: | Chrome details and trim removed from the trunk and smoothed over. |
| Deuce: | 1932 Ford. |
| Dropped: | A significantly lowered vehicle. |
| Dual Quad: | Two four barrel carburetors. |
| Duval Windshield: | a split V-shaped raked chrome-plated windshield designed by George DuVall |
| Dutchman Panel: | The metal body piece between the rear window and the trunk. |
| Exotic: | A high-priced, two passenger roadster, coupe, or convertible, usually from Europe. A few exceptions exist such as the Dodge Viper or the original Shelby Cobra. |
| Fade-Aways: | Fenders that taper back into the body. |
| Fat Fendered: | Fords built between 1935 and 1948 that were wide and rounded in appearance. |
| Fender Skirts: | Body panels that cover the rear wheel wells. |
| Filled Roof: | One that has a welded steel panel instead of the original wood-and-fabric insert. |
| Flamethrowers: | Igniting unburnt exhaust and shooting flames out the tailpipes. |
| Flathead: | An L-head or side-valve engine. The most popular flathead engine was built by Ford between 1932 and 1953. |
| Fordor: | A four-door Ford sedan. |
| Frame-off Restoration: | A restoration project in which the entire vehicle is completely disassembled with all parts cleaned or replaced as necessary, so that the restored car meets the original factory specifications as closely as possible. |
| Frame-Up Restoration: | Not as detailed as a frame-off, but involves restoring the paint, chrome, interior, and mechanicals to original specifications without complete disassembly of the car. |
| Frenched: | Recessed head or tail lights that are smoothed into the body panels. |
| Front Clip: | Either the front end sheet metal or the section of frame in front of the firewall. |
| Glass-packs: | Loud, aftermarket mufflers. |
| Goat: | Pontiac GTO. |
| Headers: | Fine-tuned exhaust manifold that is more efficient than stock. Usually chromed or coated. |
| Hemi: | An engine that has hemispherical combustion chambers in its cylinder head. Popularized by Chrysler, starting around 1951. |
| Highboy: | A fenderless customized Model A Ford coupe or roadster that sits at stock height. |
| Hot Rod: | Traditionally, an older vehicle with "low-buck" performance modifications. |
| Kit Car: | A reproduction of an existing automotive design, sold in various stages of production to allow for completion and customization by the builder. |
| Lakepipes: | Side-exit exhaust pipes located under the rocker panels. |
| Land Yacht: | Large, luxury car, usually referring to the chromed, finned, oversized vehicles of the late fifties to early sixties. |
| Leadsled: | A lowered, late-forties car with molded body seams, traditionally done with lead. |
| Lowboy: | Customized Model A Ford that has been channeled. |
| Lowered: | A vehicle that sits lower than stock height through suspension or frame modifications. |
| Lowrider: | A vehicle that has been lowered by a hydraulic suspension system that can bring the ride height up in order to drive it. |
| Louvers: | Vents or slots punched in body panels. The most commonly louvered body panel is the hood, done to increase ventilation. |
| Matching Numbers: | A restored or original vehicle in which all serial numbers (VIN, engine, body, transmission, rear end) can be researched and identified as being 100% correct for that specific vehicle. |
| Molded: | Body seams that have been filled in or otherwise smoothed out. |
| Moons: | Full wheel covers that are chrome and convex-shaped. |
| Muscle Car: | A North American intermediate or mid-sized car produced between 1964 and 1972 (with a few exceptions) with a large displacement V8 engine. |
| Nerf Bar: | Tubular bumper. |
| NOS: | New Old Stock. Parts purchased from the manufacturer that were made at the time of the original vehicle but never sold. Also an abbreviation for Nitrous Oxide System. |
| Nosed: | Chrome details and trim removed from the hood and smoothed over. |
| Original: | Contains only parts originally installed on the car or NOS parts from the manufacturer with no substitute or after-market parts. |
| Pancaked: | Hood modified to a lower profile. |
| Peaked: | A molded accent seam on a hood. |
| Pinched: | To narrow the front frame to match the grill shell. |
| Pink Slip: | Before the days of automobile titles, the portion of a California car registration that conveyed ownership was colored pink. Hence the brag in the Beach Boys' "Little Deuce Coupe" about "I got the pink slip, daddy!" |
| Piped: | Narrow, padded pleats used to trim the interior. |
| Post: | The pillar located between the front and rear doors of a four-door sedan. |
| Pro-Street: | A vehicle features large rear wheels and tires tucked deeply into the rear fender area. |
| Project Car: | One that is in restorable condition. |
| Raked: | The front end has been lowered more than the back. Can also refer to a slanted windshield. |
| Rat Rod: | A style of hot rod that imitates the early rods of the 40's-60's. Rat rods have an unfinished appearance (which they are not) with just the bare essentials to be driven. These early rods were built to the best of the owner's abilities and were built to be driven, not shown. The rockabilly and punk culture are often credited with influencing today's rat rods. |
| Replicar: | A completed reproduction of an existing automotive design, usually sold only as a turn-key, or 100% complete, car. |
| Restored: | To return a car to its original showroom condition. |
| Resto Rod: | An original looking car with a modified chassis or powerplant. |
| Roadster: | A convertible without side windows. |
| Roll Pan: | Smoothed out panel that replaces the bumper and rolls back under the vehicle. |
| Rolled: | Bumper or gas tank removed and replaced with custom panel that "rolls" under. |
| Rolled & Pleated: | Deluxe interior sewn with padded pleats. |
| Rumble Seat: | An open, fold up rear seat located where the trunk would be. |
| Running Board: | The metal strip running between the fenders and below the doors of early autos and trucks used as a step or to wipe one's feet before entering the vehicle. |
| Sectioned: | Removing a horizontal section of bodywork to lower the overall height of the body. |
| Sedan Delivery: | A two-door station wagon with solid body panels instead of windows on the sides at the back of the car. |
| Shaved: | Door handles and body trim that have been removed and smoothed over. |
| Sidemount: | A spare tire, recessed into the front fender. |
| Six-Pack: | Three two-barrel carburetors. |
| Slammed: | A significantly lowered vehicle - dropped as low as possible and still driveable. |
| Sleeper: | A vehicle that doesn't look as fast as it is. |
| Split Window: | Usually referring to the rear window - one that has two planes of glass with bodywork in between. Example: the 1963 Corvette. |
| Street Machine: | A street-legal highly modified car or truck built in 1949 or later. |
| Street Rod: | A street-legal highly modified car or truck built in 1948 or earlier. |
| Suicide Door: | A door that hinges at the rear. |
| Supercharger: | A crank driven air-to-fuel mixture compressor which increases atmospheric pressure on the engine, resulting in added horsepower. |
| Survivor: | An original, unrestored, unmolested antique car that is in good enough condition to be used as a model for the restoration of a similar car. |
| T-Bucket: | Fenderless, topless, highly-modified, Ford Model T. Most T-Buckets on the road today are kit cars or replicars. |
| Trailer Queen: | Derogatory term referring to a car that is shown frequently yet rarely driven. |
| Tri-Power: | An engine with three two barrel carburetors. |
| Tubbed: | Having the rear frame and body modified to allow for extra-wide wheels and tires that do not protrude past the fenders. |
| Tudor: | A two-door Ford sedan. |
| Tunneled: | See "Frenched" - only deeper. |
| VIN: | Vehicle Identification Number. The vehicle serial number that is stamped onto the vehicle, usually under the windshield post, the driver's door post, or on the firewall. |
| Vintage: | A vehicle built between 1915 and 1942 in stock or unmodified condition. |
| Wheelie Bars: | Rods that extend from the back of a car and are connected to wheels that help keep the car from flipping backwards during sudden acceleration. |
| Woody: | A vehicle that incorporates natural finished wood for structure of exposed body panels. |
Preparing Your Vehicle For Winter Storage
As much as we don't like it, Canadian winters are a fact of life. Along with that goes the task of preparing your car for winter storage. Now, depending on where you live in this great country of ours, there are two schools of thought on how to properly prepare your car for the coming winter months. They are:
- Park it, but run it every other week or so
- Put it into hibernation and leave it alone until the arrival of Spring.
Store it or start it?
Should you start your vehicle up once a week or so during the winter? There are arguments on both sides of this issue, but in my mind, it comes down to one question: How long will your vehicle be stored for? If you are only looking at two or three months of storage, this may be an option. If you are storing your vehicle for longer, I would strongly recommend putting the vehicle properly away and leaving it until next year. The reasons for this are simple: it's a well known fact that starting an engine is hard on it - cold weather starting is even worse. Why needlessly punish your engine?
If you are going to fire up the engine occasionally, here are a few pointers to keep in mind:
- Run it in a well ventilated area. Carbon monoxide can build up quickly.
- Run for a minimum of 20 minutes to allow the engine to come up to normal operating temperature. This will allow the oil to circulate and will also open up the thermostat so that your radiator antifreeze circulates as well.
- Crank up the air conditioner and/or heater and run them for 10 minutes or so. Again, circulating fluids is what this is all about.
- If your vehicle has power steering, you may want to turn the wheels a few times to keep the fluids flowing.
Storing your vehicle
There are a number of things to do to properly store your rod for winter. Doing it right can take up the better part of a day or two. Take the time to do it right. It will make a difference when it's time to fire it up in the Spring.
Gas and Oil
Change the oil and filter so that no contaminants are left behind. Add fuel stabilizer to your gas prior to filling the tank so that it mixes well. Run the engine long enough so that the stabilized gas makes it through the entire fuel system. Topping up your tank will help to prevent corrosion and adding a stabilizer will make sure your gas remains gas and doesn't turn into gunk.
Wheels and Tires
Overinflating your tires by about 5 pounds will help prevent flat spotting over the winter. Clean your wheels thoroughly inside and out to remove brake dust and other dirt, then apply a good coat of wax to both sides for protection. Put a coat of tire wax on the tires to keep them moisturized and prevent cracking. On a vehicle that I recently purchased, the tires had very little tread wear but had cracks in the sidewalls caused by UV rays and improper storage.
Exterior
Wash and wax your car to provide an extra layer of protection to your paint. For more information on taking care of your car's exterior, see our article on washing tips.
Vinyl and Rubber
Use a good conditioner on all vinyl and rubber parts to prevent them from drying out. There are lots of good products out there to help with this. The best that I've seen so far are wax based and will last a lot longer than most of the "this will make it shiny" sprays.
Interior
Now's the time to clean the interior thoroughly. Clean the glass, shampoo the carpets, dig in between the seats to see what's there, clean the upholstry, and get into all the nooks and crannies you've wanted to get at all year. Why? Well there's no time like the present to get rid of a season's worth of dirt, and besides, when Spring comes along, you want to be able to drive your car, not scrub it. Make sure everything is spotless and when you're done, put in some cedar (chips or boards) and silica gel to absorb any excess moisture. I wouldn't recommend using mothballs since the smell can be hard to get rid of. A good source of silica gel is as close as your nearest department or grocery store. It's called kitty litter. There are a few companies selling it as the latest and greatest thing for your cat. While it does work great in Fluffy's litter box, it also works great at absorbing excess moisture in your car.
The engine
Gas and oil have already been covered, but there's still work to be done under the hood. Degreasing and cleaning the engine is a good idea so that you can see if there are any leaks that require maintenance. Check all hoses and wires to make sure everything is in good condition and replace any that need to be. The last thing to do is to make sure the internal components of the engine remain lubricated and don't corrode. There are a number of engine storage produts that are designed to keep moisture and corrosion out while your engine is parked for an extended period. Some of these are known as "fogging" sprays, hence the term "fog it and forget it." One product that I like requires that the engine be idling at operating temperature while you spray the contents into the carburators for about 30 seconds until the engine chokes. I also remove the spark plugs and spray a little into each cylinder for good measure.
Remove the battery
Remove the battery so that you can clean the battery tray and connections to remove any acid or build up that may have accumulated. Your battery should be stored some place relatively warm (not hot) and away from kids, animals, and sources of heat or sparks. Place the battery on a block of wood (metal or concrete can discharge it) and put it out of harm's way. When Spring rolls around, it will need to be placed on a trickle charger prior to being put back in your car.
Change the brake fluid
Brake fluid will absorb moisture and needs to be changed occasionally. Changing it prior to storage means your car gets put away with uncontaminated fluids.
Seal any openings
Seal up the exhaust tips to prevent any corrosion inside the system, but more inportantly, to keep mice, bugs, and other pests out. Make sure all windows, vents, and any other openings that may exist are closed. You don't want your vehicle to become a winter home to unwanted pests so seal everything up and periodically check under, in, and around your car to make sure nothing has found a new winter home. The only thing worse than finding a rodent in your car, is finding him after he's been in there for a few months.
Convertibles
If your car is a convertible, store it with the top up. A folded top can dry out and crack over the winter. Keeping the top up also provides one less method of entry for unwanted pests. Be sure to clean and condition the top prior to storage to prevent it from drying out.
Jack it up or leave it down?
The purpose of blocking up your car is to prevent flat spotting of your tires and to take some of the strain off of the suspension. Whether you put blocks under your car or not is up to you, but if you do, make sure the blocks are under the frame and not the springs. Use something solid and stable, like axle stands, to support your car. This will help to prevent unfortunate accidents while your car is stored and when your getting ready to bring it out again.
Cover your vehicle
Cover your vehicle with a quality car cover that allows air to circulate. Plastic sheeting is not recommended as it keeps moisture in and can stick to your paint. A good car cover will protect your car from dust, scratches, and ultraviolet light.
Don't forget about your vehicle over the winter
Periodically check on your vehicle to make sure it's safe and secure. Check underneath, under the hood, and inside for fluid leaks or unwanted guests. Putting your vehicle away for the winter accomplishes one objective - preserving your car and your investment. Take the time to do it properly. You'll be glad you did.
- Park it, but run it every other week or so
- Put it into hibernation and leave it alone until the arrival of Spring.
Store it or start it?
Should you start your vehicle up once a week or so during the winter? There are arguments on both sides of this issue, but in my mind, it comes down to one question: How long will your vehicle be stored for? If you are only looking at two or three months of storage, this may be an option. If you are storing your vehicle for longer, I would strongly recommend putting the vehicle properly away and leaving it until next year. The reasons for this are simple: it's a well known fact that starting an engine is hard on it - cold weather starting is even worse. Why needlessly punish your engine?
If you are going to fire up the engine occasionally, here are a few pointers to keep in mind:
- Run it in a well ventilated area. Carbon monoxide can build up quickly.
- Run for a minimum of 20 minutes to allow the engine to come up to normal operating temperature. This will allow the oil to circulate and will also open up the thermostat so that your radiator antifreeze circulates as well.
- Crank up the air conditioner and/or heater and run them for 10 minutes or so. Again, circulating fluids is what this is all about.
- If your vehicle has power steering, you may want to turn the wheels a few times to keep the fluids flowing.
Storing your vehicle
There are a number of things to do to properly store your rod for winter. Doing it right can take up the better part of a day or two. Take the time to do it right. It will make a difference when it's time to fire it up in the Spring.
Gas and Oil
Change the oil and filter so that no contaminants are left behind. Add fuel stabilizer to your gas prior to filling the tank so that it mixes well. Run the engine long enough so that the stabilized gas makes it through the entire fuel system. Topping up your tank will help to prevent corrosion and adding a stabilizer will make sure your gas remains gas and doesn't turn into gunk.
Wheels and Tires
Overinflating your tires by about 5 pounds will help prevent flat spotting over the winter. Clean your wheels thoroughly inside and out to remove brake dust and other dirt, then apply a good coat of wax to both sides for protection. Put a coat of tire wax on the tires to keep them moisturized and prevent cracking. On a vehicle that I recently purchased, the tires had very little tread wear but had cracks in the sidewalls caused by UV rays and improper storage.
Exterior
Wash and wax your car to provide an extra layer of protection to your paint. For more information on taking care of your car's exterior, see our article on washing tips.
Vinyl and Rubber
Use a good conditioner on all vinyl and rubber parts to prevent them from drying out. There are lots of good products out there to help with this. The best that I've seen so far are wax based and will last a lot longer than most of the "this will make it shiny" sprays.
Interior
Now's the time to clean the interior thoroughly. Clean the glass, shampoo the carpets, dig in between the seats to see what's there, clean the upholstry, and get into all the nooks and crannies you've wanted to get at all year. Why? Well there's no time like the present to get rid of a season's worth of dirt, and besides, when Spring comes along, you want to be able to drive your car, not scrub it. Make sure everything is spotless and when you're done, put in some cedar (chips or boards) and silica gel to absorb any excess moisture. I wouldn't recommend using mothballs since the smell can be hard to get rid of. A good source of silica gel is as close as your nearest department or grocery store. It's called kitty litter. There are a few companies selling it as the latest and greatest thing for your cat. While it does work great in Fluffy's litter box, it also works great at absorbing excess moisture in your car.
The engine
Gas and oil have already been covered, but there's still work to be done under the hood. Degreasing and cleaning the engine is a good idea so that you can see if there are any leaks that require maintenance. Check all hoses and wires to make sure everything is in good condition and replace any that need to be. The last thing to do is to make sure the internal components of the engine remain lubricated and don't corrode. There are a number of engine storage produts that are designed to keep moisture and corrosion out while your engine is parked for an extended period. Some of these are known as "fogging" sprays, hence the term "fog it and forget it." One product that I like requires that the engine be idling at operating temperature while you spray the contents into the carburators for about 30 seconds until the engine chokes. I also remove the spark plugs and spray a little into each cylinder for good measure.
Remove the battery
Remove the battery so that you can clean the battery tray and connections to remove any acid or build up that may have accumulated. Your battery should be stored some place relatively warm (not hot) and away from kids, animals, and sources of heat or sparks. Place the battery on a block of wood (metal or concrete can discharge it) and put it out of harm's way. When Spring rolls around, it will need to be placed on a trickle charger prior to being put back in your car.
Change the brake fluid
Brake fluid will absorb moisture and needs to be changed occasionally. Changing it prior to storage means your car gets put away with uncontaminated fluids.
Seal any openings
Seal up the exhaust tips to prevent any corrosion inside the system, but more inportantly, to keep mice, bugs, and other pests out. Make sure all windows, vents, and any other openings that may exist are closed. You don't want your vehicle to become a winter home to unwanted pests so seal everything up and periodically check under, in, and around your car to make sure nothing has found a new winter home. The only thing worse than finding a rodent in your car, is finding him after he's been in there for a few months.
Convertibles
If your car is a convertible, store it with the top up. A folded top can dry out and crack over the winter. Keeping the top up also provides one less method of entry for unwanted pests. Be sure to clean and condition the top prior to storage to prevent it from drying out.
Jack it up or leave it down?
The purpose of blocking up your car is to prevent flat spotting of your tires and to take some of the strain off of the suspension. Whether you put blocks under your car or not is up to you, but if you do, make sure the blocks are under the frame and not the springs. Use something solid and stable, like axle stands, to support your car. This will help to prevent unfortunate accidents while your car is stored and when your getting ready to bring it out again.
Cover your vehicle
Cover your vehicle with a quality car cover that allows air to circulate. Plastic sheeting is not recommended as it keeps moisture in and can stick to your paint. A good car cover will protect your car from dust, scratches, and ultraviolet light.
Don't forget about your vehicle over the winter
Periodically check on your vehicle to make sure it's safe and secure. Check underneath, under the hood, and inside for fluid leaks or unwanted guests. Putting your vehicle away for the winter accomplishes one objective - preserving your car and your investment. Take the time to do it properly. You'll be glad you did.
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